Library of Water

A potential slogan for the Icelandic Tourism Board could be Iceland: You Will Get Wet as that’s been the theme of this trip to date.   Wet, from the rather persistent rainy weather.  Wet, from the spray being cast off the countless waterfalls.  Wet, from relaxing in the geothermal pools that litter the countryside.  And wet, from the beads of sweat that team down your face as you walk over glaciers, lava fields and hike up mountains.    Although they call this the land of “Fire and Ice” and Icelanders live with the constant threat of an imminent volcanic eruption it is water that is the consistent here and to quote a famous Doctor “water always wins”.

My trips to the West, to view the stunning Snaefellsnes Peninsula, and then to the South, to the Glacier Lagoon at Jokulsarlon, were proof in point as it was how water and the landscape interacted that dominated both trips.

First up was the Snaefellsnes Peninsula which is home to Snaefellsjokull the ominous peak that is the entry point for Jules Verne’s “Journey to the Centre of the Earth” (dinosaurs, giant crystals and inland seas anyone?).     The small tour group was assembled in Reyjkavik and told to expect a 12-13 hour round trip which would allow frequent photo stops. 

 

After some brief pitstops, including the town of Botnsdalur, it was not until we reached the tiny fishing village of Hellnar where Iceland provided its moody best scenery.   From a viewing point close to the hamlet I witnessed one of the most inspiring landscapes I’ve ever seen - waterfalls careering off lava cliffs and smashing into the ocean below.    Picture postcard worthy and enhanced by the brooding dark clouds and unforgiving rain that made the scene all the more unforgettable.  

 

After a lunch stop which consisted of freshly baked bread with Icelandic butter (which is mixed with mustard) and acres of Smoked Salmon at the tiniest of café’s, Fjoruhusid, it was on to the black sanded beaches of Dritvik stopping on the way to marvel at the craggy stacks that poke from the sea like hands reaching for the sky.    The black-sanded beach of Djupalonssandur provided another water phenomenon as, once a wave crashes onto the sand, the colour of the ocean becomes a crisp icy blue – a colour that can only be understood by a photograph.

A brief walk over to the adjoining beach of Dritvik allowed ample time to explore the vast black pebbled beach strewn which is speckled with the twisted orange wreckage of the trawler Eding which smashed onto the beach in 1948.   

 

The loop continued on to the coastal towns of Rif and eventually the largest town on the peninsula Stykkisholmur before looping back to the main road and back to Reyjkavik.   One 12 hour day down but unbeknownst to me a longer day was set for the next day on my venture down the South Coast to the Glacier Lagoon at Jokularson (next update).

Icelandic Folklore…

·         The 13 Christmas Elves (children of a Troll) are located in the Hills outside of Reyjkavik and if a child is naughty (as in naughty or nice) the elves will leave a rotten potato in the child’s shoe during the dead of night (as Icelander’s keep their shoes off when indoors).

Don’t be concerned – it’s what Icelanders do…

·         Babies are left in their prams and parked outside of cafes or shops (especially boutiques) – it’s weird to see the first time but I’m assured this is customary

Day of Descent

As eruptions occur approximately every 3-4 years on average in Iceland (some say it’s more like 10 years) it seemed like a good idea to explore as much volcanic attractions as possible (and safe) whilst here.  So what better than descending 120 metres into a dormant volcano and having a little peak around in the vault below.  After getting a little bit of buyers regret once I’d booked the tour this experience had become the thing I really focused on for this trip…and it surpassed all my expectations.  

I owe the Weather God a small sacrifice as offering of thanks due to the amazing day we were greeted with on the day of descent.  All I’ve heard since I’ve arrived is that this summer has been horrifically wet (especially in the South) but what greeted me was “the best day of summer” (quote from tour guide).   On arrival at the booking station I met the small cluster of souls that were braving the trip with me and they were all as excited, expectant and terrified as I.    The ‘Inside the Volcano’ tour has only been operational for 2 summers and everything that accompanies the tour is flown in at the beginning of summer and flown out at the end (in about 2 weeks from now).   With only 4 descents a day and a maximum of 15 people per descent it became apparent this was something very few people are ever going to get the chance to do and it dawned on most of us that this was pretty special.

On arrival in the “Blue Mountains”, which is the South’s skiing field, approximately a 50 minute drive out of Reyjkavik  we were met by our guide (suitably blonde and stubbled) who announced we’d be trekking across the moss laden lava field to the tour’s Base Camp.  The walk itself is not strenuous due to height grade but it’s treacherous as you navigate the lava rocks for 50+ minutes (so glad my walking boots accompanied me).      The group mainly consisted of older Brits which I found really puzzling as they struggled to make the walk little own the descent.   Maybe this has to do with the expense of the trip which potentially precludes a lot of budget travellers but myself and a young couple from Texas were the youngest on the tour.    With over 300 kinds of moss located all over Iceland the greenscape that greets you as you trek across the lava rocks is bewildering and hypnotic.

Arriving at Base Camp , located a short ascent from Thrihnukagigur’s opening, we were greeted by our incredibly friendly base camp leader who introduced us to the camp’s adopted Arctic Fox, Flame.   The little fox was abandoned by its mother and adopted the Base Camp staff as its pseudo parents – it cheerfully mingles with the crowd seemingly happy for the company and spare bit of food.  Interestingly the fox scavenges as much as she can (mittens, scarves etc) preparing for the winter so we’re encouraged to ensure all our lose items are stored in our bags.    

 

 

Thrihnukagigur translates to mean “Three Peaked” and one of the three peaks contains a small opening from which the descent into the dormant volcano is possible.   Having been dormant for over 4000 years Thriknukagigur contains one of the only fully intact magma chambers and the 120 metre drop into the chamber is equal parts terrifying and exhilarating.   In groups of 5 (of course I was in the first group) we were harnassed, hard-hatted and asked to “walk the plank” out into the volcano opening’s centre and climb down a small ladder into a window washer’s crate.   Once on board and with a push of a red button (how hi-tech) the descent began.   The opening at the top is quite small and the crate requires a shift in speed as it descends past some of the tighter spots (wheels on the side of the crate assist on stabilising the cage as it squeezes through) but once passed the tight entrance the shaft opens into a large bowl like chamber.

The photographs of the chamber do not do it justice as the reds, blacks, oranges and greys of the chamber don’t come out that well on film.  Allowed a half hour to explore the chamber the group is asked to stay in-front of the orange rope (the drop zone for anything that may fall from above) and behind the white rope (as parts of the chamber descend even further into yet unexplored territory).   Ummmm – sure happy to stay between the ropes.   And so you’re left alone to clamber over the massive rocks contained in the chamber, touch the walls where magma has attempted to blast its way out and quietly take in the magnitude of the experience.   Staying a constant 4 degrees all year round the chamber is dank and gloomy as glacial water thumps down in huge dollops on you from on high and making the boulders slippery and tricky to scale in places.   The sense of vertigo experienced as you look up is something I’ve never experienced and I actually lost my footing and fell due to the giddiness (apparently I’m not the only one to do so).    The half hour of exploring goes quickly but I’m not sure you’d need more and once on board the crate we’re hoisted back to the surface.

Back at base camp we’re greeted with a bowl of the hearty traditional Icelandic lamb soup (almost living on it), with little Flame trying to get a sneaky piece, which is much needed knowing the hour trek back across the lava field is required.           

Icelandic Fast Facts

·         Sheep roam freely all spring and summer over Iceland meaning that the lamb is truly free range (and delicious)

·          The Icelandic moss is incredibly sensitive and once damaged can take between 30 – 50 years to repair itself

·         The “Inside the Volcano” experience also has a helipad and I was lucky enough to see a helicopter landing onto the moss-strewn lava field on the day of descent

Traveller Fact

·         Just because you think you’re farting quietly does not mean you are (to the Brittish man who kept letting it rip in front of the group) best to move away from the group before allowing the vapour out.

Heathen Graves

 

It may have taken 28 hours, 3 flights and a massive layover in Heathrow but finally arriving into the land of Fire & Ice was worth the long haul.   The major airport in Keflavik is about an hour bus ride from Reyjkavik but a quick stint on the FlyBus and I found myself downtown at minimal expense (+ bonus all buses have free Wi-Fi).   Although Room with a View purports itself to be “luxury apartments” the complex has seen more halcyon days but it is located on the major shopping street in the centre of Reyjkavik.   All it needs is a good spruce really but the bed is comfortable and the apartment contains a kitchen (no single table syndrome on a nightly occasion) and some great views of the sea, mountains and city.   

My first full day in Iceland was all about exploring Reyjkavik itself.  Being a compact city I decided to see if I could tackle most things by foot.  It’s hard to miss it so I made it my first stop, the dominating Hallgrimskirkja, which is unmissable from every angle of the city (apparently it’s visible up to 20km away).    Regardless of its dominance it’s actually a great signpost from which to get your bearings.    The buildings dramatic exterior is juxtapose by a weirdly subdued inside but does contain an intimidating 5275 pipe organ.   On entering the cathedral I was treated to the rehearsals for a concert occurring night which provided a stunning accompaniment to the ride to the top of the tower where I snapped some lovely views of the city and surrounds.

Everything I’d read on Iceland’s capital mentioned the excellent National Museum, which was my next intended stop, but on route I got distracted by densely wooded and magical Suourgata Cemetery.   That’s another city and another major cemetery under my belt – never knew it’d turn into a “thing”.   As the rain bucketed down the National Museum provided much needed shelter and a great insight into Icelandic history from Pagan occupation to present.     From the small bronze model of Thor, that greets you on arrival to the 2^nd floor, to the impressive 12^th Century VlaPjofsstaour Door the Museum provides a digestible step-through Icelandic history.  Iceland is home to over 320 Pagan burial sites, the Heathen Graves, which date back to 900AD and the remains of a woman and child from this era are two of the most interesting and unsettling displays contained in the collection.

 

Icelanders know how to brew a good coffee and there’s coffeehouses a plenty.   After a quick espresso in the compact Stofan Cafe it was off on the short walk (about 2km) to the Saga Museum and Perlan which sits atop Oskjuhlio Hill (another crazy architectural feat containing one of the world’s most lauded revolving restaurants).      Saga Museum gets lots of good write-ups but not sure what all the fuss was about – did not really bring the Sagas to life for me – but the view from atop Perlan was worth the walk.

The following day was the first (of many) tours that I’ll be doing on this trip and I decided to start with the “must do” or “most popular” Golden Circle tour which takes in the stunning Gullfoss Waterfall, the geothermal water spouts at Geysir and the birthplace of Viking democratic parliament in Pingvellir, which also happens to be a dramatic craggy rift between the North American and Euroasian tectonic plates. 

The unexpected stop on the tour was to an organic farm which grows tomatoes and cucumbers (what?  In Iceland) in greenhouses powered by Iceland’s abundant geothermal energy.   Over 60% of Iceland’s fresh food is produced in these greenhouses and tagged as such in the local supermarkets.   

 

Iceland is home to an abundance of waterfalls and it seemed fitting that my first Icelandic waterfall experience was Iceland’s most impressive, the 32 meter double cascade drop that is Gulfoss (Golden Falls).    Saved from hydro-electric damming in the 20’s the falls were donated to the nation in the 70s and has become one of Iceland’s most treasured tourist spots.

From water falling to water spouting the next stop on the Golden Circle tour is the impressive water spouts at Geysir.    Unfortunately the namesakes spout no longer shoots impressive shards of water (due to tourists in the 50’s clogging the spout with rocks) but a sister spout, Strokkur, shoots 30m plumes of water at regular 10-12 minute intervals.      

The final stop on the tour was the less spectacular but equally as impressive Pingvellir National Park which contains the site of the first Viking parliament.

Some fascinating Icelandic facts for a Friday…

·         Reyjkavik only has approx. 120K residents

·         Iceland is one of the least populated countries in Europe with 3 people to every sq km

·         The Icelandic Horse is the only breed found in the Country

·          Over 80 000 Icelandic Horses roam the countryside (and it’s legal to eat Horse)

·         If an Icelandic Horse is transported overseas it may never return (to contain purity in breed)