Wednesday, April 20, 2011

Ambling across the Accursed Field

Adieu Cardiff...but one last stop on the way out of the Welsh capital would mean that I’d completed all the “must do’s” on my list – St Fagan’s Natural History Museum. For £3.50 this could be Cardiff’s best kept secret. Approximately 10 minutes outside of Cardiff and attached to the cute little village of St Fagan’s the Natural History Museum is a replica village of transplanted house types from throughout Wales. Painstakingly reconstructed ancient stone houses, old timber barns and the 16th century castle and manor house make this is a credible and interesting snapshot of Wales’ yesteryear. Unfortunately for us it was school holidays and as the Museum has no entry fee (just the £3.50 for parking and 30 pence for the map) the site was inundated with families escaping Cardiff and wanting a picnic in the beautiful spring sun. Undeterred by the throngs of families we set off across the fields and our first stop was the castle. St Fagan’s Castle was everything we wanted Cardiff Castle to be – room after room of life as is was back in the 16th and 17th centuries with fully furnished bedrooms laden with lush tapestries to the fascinating kitchen with its massive ovens. The other big highlight was a stunning reconstruction of an ancient Celtic village. This was a definite highlight of the trip so far. With St Fagan’s behind us it was my mission to a) get Mum and Dad ambling across some fields and b) to investigate the less visited ancient burial chambers of Tinkinswood and St Lythan’s (both of which are reportedly over 6000 years old). Winding down a single lane road bordered by massive green hedges (hello Midsummer territory) we stumbled across St Lythan’s. A quick stroll across the open field, which we later discovered was known as the Accursed Field, we were presented with the burial chamber sitting centrally on the field like a kind of ancient outhouse. St Lythan’s is the smaller of the two chambers but thought to be an ancient Druid altar where all sorts of dark mischief occurred. A short jaunt down the road and we were on another field and ambling toward the Tinkinswood burial chamber. This is the more impressive site with a massive 36 tonne capstone roofing the chamber. The chambers were buried for thousands of years before excavations in the early 1900’s uncovered these massive tombs from the early Bronze Age. Being the only visitors to the site that afternoon it was eerie and intimate experience – although it appears there’s a lot of night-time activity at the site (with the used tea candles sprinkled throughout the chamber evidence of the locals trying to resurrect Robert Pattinson).
Leaving the Accursed Fields behind us it was onto the small seaside town of Tenby in Wales’ west – a cute walled city and a popular destination for holidaying locals. Staying at the Giltar Hotel (www.giltar.co.uk), currently undergoing a major upgrade, we were housed in two of the refurbished rooms with Mum and Dad’s suite having incredible views of the bay. Tenby’s seascape is dominating by St Catherine’s Island (which can only be reached for exploration at low tide from the sands of Castle Beach) and my inner Famous Fiver was immediately alerted to its mysterious potential. Time and tide did not allow us a Julian, Dick and Anne moment but as a kid this would be a place that would have exploded my imagination with the ideas of pirate treasure, sea monsters and ghosts trapped in the sea mist.
After a good night’s sleep in our cute rooms and with another good B&B breakfast consumed (Dad’s loving the 3 course breakfast...Mum’s not loving Dad’s love of the 3 course breakfast) and we were farewelling Tenby all too early and making our way to Fishguard and the ferry to Ireland...

Next Stop: Waterford and Cork, Ireland.

Monday, April 18, 2011

Cardiff: Closed for Business until May 2011

Another stunning brekkie in our bellies (courtesy of the friendly staff at Oldfields B&B) we left picturesque Bath behind us ensuring that Wendy was kept dormant in her Sat Nav cradle and weaved through the gorgeous sun-dappled English countryside on route to Cardiff, Wales.

But before we hit the Welsh capital we diverted up toward Monmouth and the stunning ruins of Tintern Abbey, the most intact medieval abbey in all of Britain. Arriving midmorning the stunning beams of warm sunlight showcased the haunting ruins in all their dilapidated glory. Dating back to 1131 the abbey is gasp-inducing and your entry fee allows you to wander unaided and un-audio-toured around the grounds and amble in and out of the stone skeleton. From the incredible grandeur of the tracery which contained the incredible west windows to the soaring Gothic arches that hint at the spectacle that this abbey was when fully functioning this is a haunting, sombre and incredibly powerful place. One of the best stops we’ve had so far.


A quick cup of tea was in order so sitting at the local tea house with the ruins to our back we watched the local cross-country runners come into the finish line positioned on the oval next to the tea house. How quaint...and somehow quintessentially British.


Back into the Volvo (with Wendy still off) we made our way to Raglan Castle, a smidge outside of the township of Raglan, by snaking along the road next to the Wye river. We appeared to be accompanied by half of the Welsh population but they were all on foot - with the weather so good the walkers were out in big numbers traipsing the lush green countryside with their families and in many cases (multiple) dogs in tow. Raglan Castle was the last to be built in Wales around the 15th and 16th centuries and is dominated by the Great Tower, a hexagonal keep surrounded by a moat. Scaling the heights of the Great Tower you get an excellent view of the castle ruins and the surrounding fields blossoming in swathes of yellow canola flowers. Another great stop and an excellent companion site to Tintern Abbey. All of a sudden it was 2pm and lunch beckoned and here was where we made our first mistake...

Tip 1: Don’t stop in Newport on a Sunday (this working port town might be nice enough on a weekday but it’s a closed shop on a Sunday). So onto Cardiff we went. Unfortunately our hotel, The Royal Hotel, in the heart of Cardiff city centre is also smack bang in the middle of a huge road/pedestrian mall conversion. A couple of wrong turns (including a one way street in the wrong direction), an incorrect entrance faux par and a massive drive and hike to the car park (under the Millenium Stadium) we were finally checked in and ready to stretch our collective legs. Frazzled is not the best state to set out on...and as we set off to Cardiff Bay to find the Millenium Centre we were 20 minutes into our walk when we realised we were walking in the entirely wrong direction. Lonely Planet’s Wales to the rescue and we were back on track...or so we thought, here’s where we made our 2nd mistake... Tip 2 – don’t walk down Bute St (or as we christened it...ghetto st with creepy horror church) to get to Cardiff Bay. One street over is Lloyd George Avenue a much safer option – best to take that route. On arrival at Cardiff Bay – the Millenium Centre dominates the skyline with the impressive building adorned with a spectacular bronze headwrap. This is the home of Torchwood...the Hub, Captain Jack, Weavils, Gwen and Rhys, Ianto (sniff), Toshiko (sniff) and Owen (whateva) and it’s fanboy inducing fun. Desperate for a bit of Torchwood re-enactments I found the perception filter stone but this appeared to be malfunctioning as most could see me...even photograph me (weird). And then there’ the tribute...down on the wharf of Mermaid Quay is the tribute to our favourite coffee boy Ianto Jones. A wall of the wharf is dedicated to the memory of Captain Jack’s favourite barrista with tribute messages from all over the world haphazardly pinned to the wall. Bless the whoniverse. BTW – he’s not coming back. RIP Ianto. A great dinner at the Bayside Brasserie later we were back at the hotel and playing cards in the bar. The next morning we hit Cardiff in earnest with a morning of serious shopping in the fabulous St David’s Mall. After a shaky start the day before (courtesy of a dodgy route, some bad directions and copious amounts of roadworks) Cardiff was beginning to appeal to us. Unfortunately we were a little disappointed by the much hyped Cardiff Castle, positioned at the heart of Cardiff, as we’d been spoilt the day before by the spectacular ruins we’d visited. With the Dr Who Exhibition at the Red Dragon Centre closed, the Norwegian Church at Cardiff Bay closed for renovation and Custom House also at Cardiff Bay again closed until May 2011 we realised Cardiff would re-open in May 2011 (pity we were a month early). And to top that off even though I kept feigning alien suffocation Captain Jack did not miraculously appear to provide prolonged resuscitation services. Well can’t blame Cardiff for that one I suppose... Next update: Tenby, Wales

Saturday, April 16, 2011

Upstairs Downstairs

Arriving a little later than expected into Bath (courtesy of the hideous traffic jam outside Amesbury) Wendy (our Sat Nav) redeemed herself by getting us to our B&B without any more army barrack detours. On arrival at the superb Oldfields B&B (www.oldfield.co.uk) we were greeted by a fine host who ran through our accommodations facilities before escorting us up three flights of stairs to our rooms...the servant’s quarters. Mum and Dad have the larger double room whilst I have the ever so cute small single room directly opposite. Each of the rooms is equipped with an en-suite bathroom, flat screen tvs and tea & coffee equipment...but it’s the minor touches that make it really nice (Molton Brown shower product, pre-heated/pre cooled room). The morning’s breakfast service also proved to be more than ample with full cooked breakfasts as well as my preferred option the continental breakfast (fresh pastry stat!). Once gorged on food we rolled down the hill into the heart of Bath...and more specifically to the Roman Baths. Everything you read on Bath puts the Roman Bath exhibition at the top of the to-do list which always makes you wonder whether people are just plagiarising one another because they’re too lazy to have their own opinion or if it’s actually that good. And I was pleasantly surprised...it’s that good. From the gilded bust of the Goddess Minerva to the hissing streams of water from the full flowing spring to the exterior backdrop of the stunning Bath Abbey the Roman Baths have plenty to offer and is well worth the admission fee. Around every corner you’re ushered into either another exhibit or another excavated section of the Aquae Sulis where your handy audio-tour will be sure to tell you all the fascinating (and not so) facts about this unique place. Be sure to avoid the dinky costumed human “Romans” who lurk around the Baths waiting to be asked a crappy question – they’re twee and unnecessary. A further wander around the heart of Bath took us past the stunning architecture and houses of The Circle, Royal Cresent and Pulteney Bridge.





To escape the local Rugby crowds who descended on mass into the town centre we opted not to take in the Fashion Museum and other offerings of the like and instead (on a chance reading in a local magazine the night prior) decided to drive to the ruins of Farleigh Hungerford Castle approximately 20 miles from Bath on the road to Worchester. Driving through the lush green English countryside which is ripe with blossoms and stunning bulb flowers we happened upon the ruins of this 14th Century castle. Again, being off the tourist route, this attraction was almost devoid of visitors and it felt like we had the entire ruin to ourselves. This sites audio tour (theme appearing here) was a little peppier than the others and ran for only half an hour but was crammed with juicy stories (Lady Agnes killing her husband with a neckerchief and having his body flung into one of the baking ovens) and grotesque tales (18th Century folk taking the embalmed fluid from the bodies laying in the castles crypt and drinking it...um sorry?). Another 10 minutes down the road and we were in Bradford on Avon where we sat having tea in the kitchen gardens of a local Tea House whilst watching the canal boats passing through the local lock. What better way to finish the day than with a Mexican dinner at La Iguana accompanied by “Happy Hour” cocktails (make mine a Long Island Tea please).


Tomorrow: Cardiff, Wales (via Tintern Abbey)

All Roads Don't Lead to Stonehenge



Saying so-long to London Mum, Dad and I packed ourselves into our hired Volvo XC90 and started off on the trip to Bath, via Stonehenge and Avebury. Today’s mission...see as many stone circles as possible. It was not long before we were on our first Motorway and encountering our first (and what will be our last) “Service Stop”. Minor hissy fit later and a quick exit from the service stop we were on our way to Bassingstoke for a proper stop and some real food. Fortunately we found “Giraffe” a nice little brunch place attached to the slightly overwhelming Bassingstoke Shopping Centre where the food was great and the crazy motorway crowd were a distant memory of twats falling over one another to get their dirt tasting Starbucks triple shot latte. Much refreshed and with time on our side we were back in the Volvo with Wendy, our Sat Nav, guiding us toward Stonehenge. What Wendy did not tell us was that we were about to hit the mother of all traffic jams due to a ridiculous amount of Roadworks outside of Amesbury. Cue detour...an army barracks (beware Tanks Crossing), some crazy small town backroads and back to the same army barracks Wendy the Sat Nav was switched off and we reverted back to the beautiful book of road maps. 15 minutes later...hello Stonehenge. The lovely monoliths also known as the Hanging Stones are an extraordinary site. Due to the traffic chaos below the stone circle the crowds were significantly down so parking and entry was swift and easy. Within 15 minutes you quickly find-out, via a little bit too perky audio tour, all about the monoliths and what is known about them. With one stone circle down it was now onto the sleepy town of Avebury, the setting of creepy 70’s kids show The Children of the Stones, a town sitting inside an actual stone circle. The difference between the two UNESCO listed sites is that Avebury being that little bit harder to find is devoid of the crowds – making the experience much more intimate and real. Avebury’s walking tour allows you to wander right up to and amongst the stones (with the grazing sheep) as you follow a cute trail around the perimeter of one of the circles. Inside the village you’ll also find the stunning St James Avebury Church, which was initially erected in the 11th Century, and its surrounding cemetery both of which sit nestled amongst a series of thatch roofed cottages. A dinner at the local Avebury pub felt mandatory after this experience. Once we’d downed our food from The Red Lion we were on our way to our next pitstop...Bath.

Creepy Stone Circle Fact: Inside the Circle in Avebury we could not get any mobile phone reception...but step outside and we had full service!

Thursday, April 14, 2011

The Nest of the Devil



Sounds like an episode of 70’s Tom Baker Who but no...it’s the recreation of the Bards Globe Theatre. Nicknamed the Nest of the Devil by the residents of the time the re-created Globe is a beautiful and open working theatre. Although the opening run for their Spring/Summer series won’t be on my must see list – a word by word reading of The King James Bible. The tour takes you through a thorough exhibition of the who, how, what, why’s of the recreation and ushers you into the body of this working theatre. The 40 minute + tour was worth the small admission fee. With the Tate Modern next door and St Paul's Cathedral opposite this is a precious little pocket of London. Onto Oxford...via the train... Quick Tip – get your ticket at the ticket office rather than using the ticket machines. Although the machines are convenient we saved ourselves 30 pounds on the tickets by getting various discounts via actually ticketing office. ...after passing through Slough and Reading we disembarked at Oxford station and toddled off into the city to do the obligatory self-guided walking tour (and pub lunch). Highlights included the stunning Radcliffe Camera, the view from the St Mary of the Virgin Church (even Dad managed to get up all the internal spiral steps) and the picturesque grounds of Christ Church Cathedral famously known as the place where Lewis Carroll penned Alice in Wonderland and housing the Great Hall which acted as a setting for the Dining Hall scenes for Harry Potter and the Philosophers Stone and Harry Potter and the Chamber of Secrets. Tomorrow things start in earnest as we hit the road and Stonehenge, Avebury and Bath beckon.

Sunday, April 10, 2011

For Whom the Coffin Bell Tolls

Arguably the most spectacular Cemetery in all of Europe Highgate Cemetery has to also be one of the most value-for-money experiences in London. A short tube ride out of the city (Northern Line, stop at Highgate) and then a short stroll up to Highgate High St you quickly come upon the imposing gates of the “off-limits” West Cemetery and the less imposing payment booth of the easily accessible East Cemetery (where Karl Marx and Douglas Adams to name but a few are having a nap).




Opening in 1839 Highgate’s West Cemetery is a sprawling mass of tombstones, vaults and towering trees. A 2nd cemetery – the East – was opened some 15 years after the West. The West was closed in 1975, as the grounds had fallen derelict due to awful neglect, but reopened to the public only a few years back. It has been painstakingly and lovingly resorted to become a glorious working cemetery again by the Friends of Highgate Cemetery (claps). The West Cemetery is only accessible via a guided tour (on the hour) whilst the East Cemetery is easily accessible for a small fee and you can wander for hours amongst the graves if you are so inclined. However, I was here to see the grand majesty of the set of many a Hammer Horror film...the West Cemetery. The day was gorgeous with the dappled sunlight stripped away all of the potential eeriness of the setting and showcased the gardens (both stone and wood) in spectacular fashion. For a meagre 7 pounds our guide (who was full of extra stories when prompted) took us on an amble through the forest of the dead as she sprouted her best tour monologue. I particularly liked the stories of the graves of Mr Cruft (he of the dog show fame) who we were told actually hated dogs and was a cat person and his namesake dog show was created as a sponsorship and marketing wagon for his pet food business. Not to mention the story of the family tomb where some clever individual inscribed ENTRANCE on the front. Mmm – no exit then? Other facts that I learnt from our guide...

• The three stone steps on which the headstone is placed represent the three core values of Christianity (the largest and base step being Charity...oooh, like the Dingle from Emmerdale)

• That, for an extra fee, if you were to be entombed above ground in a vault you could have an exterior bell attached to your coffin which led to a little rope inside for you to pull just in-case there’d been a mistake regarding your mortality (I do a love mitigation plan)

• That Christopher Lee did indeed make several vampire Hammer House Horror films in the grounds of the West Cemetery which led to locals actually believing that the cemetery was haunted by the undead (bless!) ..and all this for less than 10 quid! Bargain.

Saturday, April 9, 2011

My Favourite Martian

Well, London has turned on some of the best weather for April in 30 years...apparently Thursday was the hottest day on record for the month of April (a whopping 23 degrees) – so just like the entirety of Melbourne’s summer this year then? No complaints – I love the crisp mornings and evenings and the beautiful cloudless skies during the day have persuaded Londoners to strip off, embrace the flip flops and adopt the most pleasant demeanours. Let the sunshine in indeed!


Embracing my inner Whovian geek I toddled off to The Doctor Who Experience at Olympia 2, London first thing this morning and I had high hopes for the experience and I wasn’t disappointed. WHOA how cool was it to walk through the TARDIS door and enter the console room.


The experience is really only 4 rooms but I was completely absorbed by the entire experience. I was also really, really happy that Matt Smith’s Doctor narrated the duration of the show and there was no trace of crappy Amy Pond anywhere (well almost no trace). By far the best room was the Dalek room...the kids on our tour were genuinely scared of the tinpots – funny to watch little kids cowering behind their parents. Ahhh Who how I love you. The 3D show at the end was also pretty special – the Weeping Angles were made for a 3D experience – and was a nice fitting homage to Series 5. My only complaint is that the “Experience” is only a Series 5 Experience. There’s little in the “Experience” that references either David Tennant or Christopher Eccleston’s stints as the Doctor...which is potentially a missed opportunity.


The exhibition after the experience was really the highlight of the show – whether it was the costumes of all the Doctors...

... or My Favourite Martins...The Ice Warriors...


... or the scariest monsters from the new series – The Scarecrow...

...or some favourites from the 4th Doctor Era – is that a Zygon in your pocket?


I’m sure the weather knows there’s a Royal Wedding in the offing and appears to be doing its best at hinting that it might play ball for Willy and Katie’s special day. From the amount of memorabilia that’s around the place you really can’t escape the “excitement”. So what better way to celebrate than with a trip to Buckingham Palace.


How to quell the excitement...what about a ride on the London Eye? Sure, why not? Although I did not think I was afraid of heights (hello! Sears Tower, Seattle Needle etc etc) the experience in the Eye is somewhat disconcerting. A couple of times I found myself edging toward the safety of the centre of the pod (with the scared little children) and never really felt comfortable for the entire go-round. However, the view really made up for any discomfort experienced.


Finally, a bit of shopping on Oxford St including an obligatory trip into Selfridges and the day is done...and I have not even mentioned Emmerdale once (whoops!).