Saturday, April 30, 2011

The Dark Hedges and Other Stories

On route from Dublin to Belfast our first major stop was the UNESCO heritage site of Bru na Boinne, an inter-connecting series of several Neolithic tombs close to the River Boyne and the village of Slane. Irish road signs have proven to be more than challenging on this trip and our route from the M1 (the Dublin-Belfast road) was made even more frustrating with no signage to this “must do experience”. What we discovered was that all the signs indicated the site of Newgrange, the name of one of the main three tombs, whereas all our tour literature (in hotels, info hubs and in guidebooks) refers to the site of Bru na Boinne. Grrrr! Another village detour behind us and we were in the visitors carpark and taking a short walk to the visitors centre. The Bru na Boinne set-up is exceptional and to protect the site all access to the tombs is via the visitor centre shuttle buses (which depart at regular intervals). The short 5 minute drive through lush green fields containing happily grazing cows and sheep leads you directly to the incredible grass-topped stone dome. Newgrange, the first of three tombs that you can visit, pre-dates the Celts in Ireland and the site is approximately 500 years older than the Pyramids of Egypt. Walking inside the tomb is a humbling experience especially when the lights are extinguished and you’re treated to a re-enactment of the fleeting filtering in of the Winter Solstice sun that this Neolithic construction captures. A definite highlight.
Arriving in Belfast in the late afternoon we were welcomed into a bustling, cosmopolitan city and one which I did not expect to embrace in the way that I did. Having a serviced apartment for this stay also meant we all felt slightly more relaxed about our surrounds and could finally do some washing. Taking the much recommended Belfast Black Cab Tour of West Belfast troubled spots was a unique and compelling way to experience this cities recent violent history. Ask any black cab driver to take you on a tour and for a small fee they’ll ferry you safely around these sites for approximately and hour – you’ll take in various wall murals from both sides, the headquarters for Sinn Fein and to visit memorials of some locations of horrendous and notorious atrocities such as the Bombay St fires. The West Belfast wall is the world’s longest memorial mural in the world and this was an shocking and saddening experience and one which I would highly recommend for any visitor to this city.






Our 2nd day in Belfast was actually spent much further north within Northern Ireland as we explored the Causeway Coast Road and some of this islands most picturesque coastline. Our first stop was the underwhelming Dark Hedges, an apparently haunted road in the undulating countryside, where the trees form a zigzagging canopy across the across the road. No ghost but a couple of good photos. However our 2nd stop, the Mussenden Temple, provided us some of the most spectacular scenery of our trip. After a short amble through the Mussenden gardens, you emerge in a bare field containing three or four significant structures. The most attractive being the Mussenden Temple, which sits perched on the edge of the cliff overlooking a stretch of golden beach. The ruins of Mussenden House, which sits in the foreground of the temple, hints at the grandeur and opulence of this property in its heyday...it’s skeleton now standing grand and quiet; an echo of its former self. Our next stop on the Causeway Coast Road was the stunning Giant’s Causeway, which proved to be one of the best signposted sights in all of Ireland (no getting lost here!). Arriving in the late afternoon, and beating most of the crowds, this is another UNESCO heritage site and a place stepped in Irish legend and lore. According to legend this is the site that Finn McCool, he who consumed the salmon of knowledge, created to spite his Scottish rivals. The blackened cliffs of the multiple bays are dribbled with lush green grass that spills unevenly over them like icing. The spectacular Stepping Stones, which happen to also grace the cover of Lonely Planet Ireland, are a geological phenomenon; a peaked avenue of stone steps that lead directly from the sea to the cliffs where all visitors are permitted to clamber and climb over this natural wonder. The next bay over provides more picturesque landscape photograph moments as rolling waves crash onto blackened rocks and the huge cliffs play house to a myriad of noisy sea bird life.
After several hours of walking in and around the Giant’s Causeway, we returned to Belfast via the stunning cliff top ruin of Dunlace Castle. Unfortunately we’d left our run a little late and the castle grounds were closed however as the castle dominates the coastline views it was easy to capture some great sunset images of the site.
With the Royal Wedding taking place the following day and this being our “transit day” from Ireland to Scotland we decided it was best to leave our apartment early and find a cafe screening the event. Thanks to Oscar’s Champagne Cafe, some bacon buttys and some strong coffee and we watched Willy and Kate wed – a nice way to end our Irish leg of this trip.


Next: Fort William and Isle of Skye, Scotland

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