Upstairs Downstairs

Arriving a little later than expected into Bath (courtesy of the hideous traffic jam outside Amesbury) Wendy (our Sat Nav) redeemed herself by getting us to our B&B without any more army barrack detours. On arrival at the superb Oldfields B&B (www.oldfield.co.uk) we were greeted by a fine host who ran through our accommodations facilities before escorting us up three flights of stairs to our rooms...the servant’s quarters. Mum and Dad have the larger double room whilst I have the ever so cute small single room directly opposite. Each of the rooms is equipped with an en-suite bathroom, flat screen tvs and tea & coffee equipment...but it’s the minor touches that make it really nice (Molton Brown shower product, pre-heated/pre cooled room). The morning’s breakfast service also proved to be more than ample with full cooked breakfasts as well as my preferred option the continental breakfast (fresh pastry stat!). Once gorged on food we rolled down the hill into the heart of Bath...and more specifically to the Roman Baths. Everything you read on Bath puts the Roman Bath exhibition at the top of the to-do list which always makes you wonder whether people are just plagiarising one another because they’re too lazy to have their own opinion or if it’s actually that good. And I was pleasantly surprised...it’s that good. From the gilded bust of the Goddess Minerva to the hissing streams of water from the full flowing spring to the exterior backdrop of the stunning Bath Abbey the Roman Baths have plenty to offer and is well worth the admission fee. Around every corner you’re ushered into either another exhibit or another excavated section of the Aquae Sulis where your handy audio-tour will be sure to tell you all the fascinating (and not so) facts about this unique place. Be sure to avoid the dinky costumed human “Romans” who lurk around the Baths waiting to be asked a crappy question – they’re twee and unnecessary. A further wander around the heart of Bath took us past the stunning architecture and houses of The Circle, Royal Cresent and Pulteney Bridge.

To escape the local Rugby crowds who descended on mass into the town centre we opted not to take in the Fashion Museum and other offerings of the like and instead (on a chance reading in a local magazine the night prior) decided to drive to the ruins of Farleigh Hungerford Castle approximately 20 miles from Bath on the road to Worchester. Driving through the lush green English countryside which is ripe with blossoms and stunning bulb flowers we happened upon the ruins of this 14th Century castle. Again, being off the tourist route, this attraction was almost devoid of visitors and it felt like we had the entire ruin to ourselves. This sites audio tour (theme appearing here) was a little peppier than the others and ran for only half an hour but was crammed with juicy stories (Lady Agnes killing her husband with a neckerchief and having his body flung into one of the baking ovens) and grotesque tales (18th Century folk taking the embalmed fluid from the bodies laying in the castles crypt and drinking it...um sorry?). Another 10 minutes down the road and we were in Bradford on Avon where we sat having tea in the kitchen gardens of a local Tea House whilst watching the canal boats passing through the local lock. What better way to finish the day than with a Mexican dinner at La Iguana accompanied by “Happy Hour” cocktails (make mine a Long Island Tea please).

Tomorrow: Cardiff, Wales (via Tintern Abbey)