Sunday, April 10, 2011

For Whom the Coffin Bell Tolls

Arguably the most spectacular Cemetery in all of Europe Highgate Cemetery has to also be one of the most value-for-money experiences in London. A short tube ride out of the city (Northern Line, stop at Highgate) and then a short stroll up to Highgate High St you quickly come upon the imposing gates of the “off-limits” West Cemetery and the less imposing payment booth of the easily accessible East Cemetery (where Karl Marx and Douglas Adams to name but a few are having a nap).




Opening in 1839 Highgate’s West Cemetery is a sprawling mass of tombstones, vaults and towering trees. A 2nd cemetery – the East – was opened some 15 years after the West. The West was closed in 1975, as the grounds had fallen derelict due to awful neglect, but reopened to the public only a few years back. It has been painstakingly and lovingly resorted to become a glorious working cemetery again by the Friends of Highgate Cemetery (claps). The West Cemetery is only accessible via a guided tour (on the hour) whilst the East Cemetery is easily accessible for a small fee and you can wander for hours amongst the graves if you are so inclined. However, I was here to see the grand majesty of the set of many a Hammer Horror film...the West Cemetery. The day was gorgeous with the dappled sunlight stripped away all of the potential eeriness of the setting and showcased the gardens (both stone and wood) in spectacular fashion. For a meagre 7 pounds our guide (who was full of extra stories when prompted) took us on an amble through the forest of the dead as she sprouted her best tour monologue. I particularly liked the stories of the graves of Mr Cruft (he of the dog show fame) who we were told actually hated dogs and was a cat person and his namesake dog show was created as a sponsorship and marketing wagon for his pet food business. Not to mention the story of the family tomb where some clever individual inscribed ENTRANCE on the front. Mmm – no exit then? Other facts that I learnt from our guide...

• The three stone steps on which the headstone is placed represent the three core values of Christianity (the largest and base step being Charity...oooh, like the Dingle from Emmerdale)

• That, for an extra fee, if you were to be entombed above ground in a vault you could have an exterior bell attached to your coffin which led to a little rope inside for you to pull just in-case there’d been a mistake regarding your mortality (I do a love mitigation plan)

• That Christopher Lee did indeed make several vampire Hammer House Horror films in the grounds of the West Cemetery which led to locals actually believing that the cemetery was haunted by the undead (bless!) ..and all this for less than 10 quid! Bargain.

No comments:

Post a Comment