A Boy Scout in the Balkans

So my detour to the Balkans is coming to an end and as I sit here on my balcony sipping a final espresso and being distracted by the fabulous views of the harbour of Gruz, where boats quietly amble into port, I’m compelled to compile my list of the best travel experiences from this trip. One of the big things I’ve learnt is that Sept/ Oct is the best time to visit Dubrovnik as it’s the end of high season and you easily beat the summer crowds and still have access to all of the tours etc.

But first the stats:

Eurovision Countries visited – Germany, Slovenia, Croatia, Bosnia I Herzegovina, Montenegro.

Words that kept me occupied – Partick Ness’ The Knife of Never Letting Go, Charlie Higson’s The Enemy, Carlos Ruiz Zafon’s Shadow of the Wind and Erick Setiawan’s Of Bees and Mist.

Lonely Planet Guidebooks used - Lonely Planet Munich, Bavaria and the Black Forest, Lonely Planet Slovenia, Lonely Planet Western Balkans. Will be recommending that Western Balkan’s includes Slovenia in future guides (be having a word to Marg in the UK office).

Soundtrack - Little Boots, La Roux, Cascada, Duffy, Natalie Imbruglia, Marit Larsen + endless Eurovision mega mixes (big repeats of Iceland 09 Yohanna’s Is it True?, Ukraine 08 Ani Lorak’s Shady Lady, Switzerland 08 Paolo Meneguzzi’s Era Stupendo, Israel 09 Noa & Mira Awad’s There Must be Another Way, Estonia 09 Urban Symphony’s Randajad and Armenia 09 Kejsi Tola’s Carry Me in Your Dreams.

Top 5 Highlights

#1: Dubrovnik’s Old City, Croatia.

Whether it’s in the baking hot sun or under the cover of the cool clear night Dubrovnik’s Old City is something very special. This ancient Roman fortification is the most breathtaking sight and once on the walls and looking down into the labyrinth of olive and lime tree laden alley ways you realise that all the clichés are about this place are true.

#2: The Bay of Kotor, Montenegro.

Brilliant day trip from Dubrovnik made all the more special with a small tour provider. Highlights included the faded glory of the tiny town of Perast with its forbidden graveyard island, a step back in time to the Istrian glory of Kotor’s Old City and the climb to the top of city wall and the beautiful little island of Sveti Stefan.

#3: Ljubljana, Slovenia.

A gem of a city - a rejuvenated old town with square after square of shops and cafes matched only by the sprawling food and flower market at the base of the Ljubljana castle.

#4: Pocitelj, Bosnia I Herzegovina.

This Stone Town is a step back into the days of Ottoman glory. Gypsy women sell paper funnels of dried apricots and figs at the entrance to the town. The massive fort at the top of the town gives an incredible view of the towns Mosque from above.

# 5: Bled, Slovenia.

Gothic and glorious this town is special and it’s only 1hr 15min bus ride from Ljubljana. I will treasure that I was being the only traveller that rainy day to take the gondola across the lake to the tiny island to ring the Wishing Bell. Eurovision’s Australian telehost here I come! Watch out SBS.

Other unexpected highlights included the spectacular train ride through the Alps, the moving bus ride from Zagreb to Dubrovnik where you see first hand the devastation of the recent war, the staff at the Berkeley Hotel in Dubrovnik whose generosity still flaws me and leaping from the rocks on a beach on Lokrum Island into the cool Adriatic Sea.

Top 5 odd TV experiences

1. Germany’s Yes I Can Dance – fat and faded German celebrities doing Rock Eisteddfod style dance montage’s with viewers voting out the worst each week. Weird yet compelling.
2. CSI Miami in German – Horatio is scarier in German
3. CSI Miami in Slovenian – Horatio is even scarier in Slovenian
4. CSI Miami in Croatian – proves that Horatio is scary in any language
5. The Monk character in the multi-repeated Croatian Soap Opera – any show with a Monk as a character is OK by me.

Top 5 Frustrations

1. Schloss Nymphenburg, Munich closing at 4pm on weekdays….grrr
2. Munich being closed on a Sunday – particularly with no chemists in sight
3. Hotel Arcotel Allegra in Zagreb unable to accommodate breakfast prior to 6:30 due to a 7am departure
4. Gypsies – bloody annoying
5. Being left behind by tour operator for tour of Mostar, Bosnia I Herzegovina.

Would I come back?

Dubrovnik, Croatia – in an instant – there’s so much more to see here that I’ll need to do next time. The Hamptons of Croatia - Cavtat, Brac Island, Hvar Island, Elaphite Islands, Korcula Island, Trsteno Gardens, Mljet Island with its spooky Monastery, Split, The Istrian peninsula.

Slovenia – I’m disappointed I did not get to Piran and Ptuj but they’ll remain on my wish list.

Munich & Zagreb – probably not