Detour via Sveti Coc

The start of today was not great – courtesy of torrential rain, a hotel where breakfast started at 6:30 (but I had to be at the bus station at 7am) and a ridiculous communication error regarding “paid” and “to pay”. Not to mention that my base of my leg has doubled in size. Thanks to some kind responses to whinge texts (Rich and Mum) I boarded the bus from Zagreb to Dubrovnik. 11 hours of solid bus trip…with no breakfast. After the quickest of Espresso’s and a Berry muffin my Croatiabus experience commenced in sleeting rain.

After a shortwhile I noticed a marked change in the landscape as we went from thickets of autumnal coloured forests into a rockier terrain market by low lying shrubs. About 3 hours out of Zagreb we were detoured off of Highway 1 onto a side road (due to some works on that section) via the township of Sveti Coc. This was a profound detour. The bus hurtled through the small streets like it was trying to escape an oncoming army but I could not escape the scarred landscape. I was struck by one town in particular where a Church had been burnt to the ground, its steeple missing replaced by a huge trunk of a fallen tree, opposite the rubble of what would have been thirty homes and next to it a dilapidated building marked with two letters UN. I cannot fathom what this place experienced. This is a country still very much recovering. As the bus moved from town to town the same scenario repeated abandoned farmhouses, ruins, desolation, destruction and then an apartment building with someone’s washing hanging from the 8th story.

Finally we arrive in Split for a half hour refreshment stop and a chance to use the toilet (horray!).

Tip # 1: The 11 hour bus ride will have about 4 stops – ensure you use the toilet at every opportunity

Once on the way to Dubrovnik the scenery transforms again as the bus winds the coast road. I’m so close to the Adriatic that I could almost reach out and touch. The water is ridiculously clear and even from the bus I can see the rocks at the bottom of the water. After 3 hours of winding road passing countless resortish towns that announce Pension or Apartmen we head inland for a final stop before Dubrovnik.

Fortunately my apartment, at Berkeley Hotel, is only a short walk from the bus terminal and the kind receptionist there provided me some ice for my leg. I’m on the 4th floor with a direct view of Dubrovnik Harbour (with a couple of Cruise Liners in town). My small balcony gives an excellent view…I can’t wait for the morning.

Tomorrow: Dubrovnik Old Town.

Do Slovenian Ducks Speak Slovene?

When I arose this morning I knew that today was going to be tough. The skies were bleak and the rain was tumbling in torrents from the thick black clouds. Doh! This was my allocated day for the picturesque Bled. Oh Well!

So off I went to the Bus Station and purchased my ticket to Bled (about an 1.15 from Ljubljana and 6.30 Euro).

Quick Tip 1: Bus Station is next to the Train Station and very easy to use.

As the bus meandered through the Slovenian countryside I was struck by the beauty of the day. The mist clung to the trees as if it had been snagged by bare spidery branches. OK - today was going to be good.

On my arrival in Bled the rain appeared to have gotten worse. Thank heavens for that Umbrealla. Once off the bus I hightailed it downhill toward the lake and when the castle came into view I actually gasped outloud. I was the only one on the street, in the torrential rain, staring open-mouthed at Lake Bled and its Castle.

The Castle sits atop a 300 metre high cliff that lourdes over the Lake like a Master. It's very grand, very cool and everything you'd expect a Medieval Castle to be. It's then that you see the tear-shaped island in the middle of the lake (apparently Slovenia's only Island) with it's solitary Church and have another "clutch the pearls" moment.

Quick Tip 2: Always pack a collapsable umbrella

After a quick pitstop at the Info centre I boarded the Gondola to the island (the only person on that passage...a little bit "Don't Pay the Ferryman"). The lake itself is exquisite, the boat glided effortlessly across the water and appeared as if it was sliding on glass. No current disturbed the mineral green water which was made even more errily beautiful as raindrops erupted the waters surface accompanied by the softest of patters.

Once on the island itself I climbed the ancient steps to the Church of St Mary determine to ring the Wishing Bell (good title for a book). And did I give that Bell a yank! It's not every day you get to ring the Church Bells (on an Island in Slovenia no less). Legend has it that the original Bell was made the widow Polyxena von Kreigh in memory of her murdered Husband. Unfortunately the Bell was lost to the waters of Lake Bled as on it's journey to the island a tempest arose sinking the boat containing the Bell. Lovely Polyxena (I'm reading it as Pollyanna) so distraught by this misfortune took herself to a Nunnery where she remained until her death. On hearing of this the Church made a new bell and it was brought to the island in 1534. Apparently all that ring the Bell will have their wishes granted as way of thanks to Polyxena. So, that means I'm hosting the Australian telecast of Eurovision 2010 in Oslo with Julia Zemero for SBS. Bad luck Sam Pang (you contributed NO Eurovision history to this years telecast).

On my return from the Island the rain had gotten worse (and I'm not sure that was possible) but on the advice of the waitress from a local cafe I walked up the road to Bled Castle. And it was worth it - but only for the views. The Castle itself has been over-processed (gift stores, vid rooms, cafes etc etc) and loses a lot of the mystique that it projects when you see it from the ground. Pity the day was so misty as the photo's did not do it justice.

Quick Tip 3: When it rains in Slovenia where water proof shoes.

Sodden and a bit grumpy (and quite a few Euro lighter) I hightailed it back to the Bus Station and the eventual safety (read: dry) of Ljubljana.

On the bus ride back to Ljubljana I got a little lost in my thoughts. As I'm reading Patrick Ness' awesome Young Adult Fiction debut The Knife of Never Letting Go, whose main character can hear the thoughts (Noise) of others including animals (his dog Manchee), I got to ponder - do Slovenian Ducks Speak in Slovene? And if they do and I could hear them would it be in Slovene or would I translate them internally (similar to the Companions in Dr Who who are granted the gift of language by the TARDIS). Or is this the just the hardcore cold I have sending me into dementia.

Eurovision Rating: All boy band in matching outfits singing a Euro-trash Dance song. Catchy but in-offensive tune. Qualifies for Final but does not make Top 15.

Tomorrow: Zagreb, Croatia.

Speaking Gibberish to a Gypsy

After another breathtaking train ride - this time from Munich to Ljubljana via Salzburg - where I was granted a gorgeous cloudless day allowing the Austrian Alps to twinkle in snow peaked glory. Furry cows, furry chickens, furry goats...it appears everyone and everything in Austria adopts a furry coat. The train ride was impressive - on time, not crowded and with very, very clean cabins. Go the DB.

On arrival into Ljubljana night had already fallen and, on advice from an individual at the train station, I decided to walk to my hotel. BAD MOVE. Half way through the 6km walk I had flashbacks to a time when I'd forced Mum and Dad to walk from the Banff train station to our hotel. Oh Well - it appears I'll never learn. Ankle was not happy post the walk - so it's now strapped tightly.

Undetered by the location of the hotel (although it is very comfortable) the next morning I trudged back into the heart of Ljubljana's Altstadt. And there's only one way to describe it. Stunning. Ljubljana has one of the most attractive and interesting Old Towns I've seen. Guarded by the massive Ljubljana Castle atop a small hill Ljubljana old town skirts around the base of the hill like children under their mother's skirt. The Old Town itself is heaving with interesting shops and cafes and contains a colourful fruit and flower market in one of the Trg's. It is here that you will find the fabuolous milk vending machine with fresh Moo Juice all day. Little knooks, hidden behind massive oak doors or gaurded by impressive wrought iron gates, contain interesting shops so it's worth taking time to amble Ljubljana's cobblestoned streets to ensure you don't miss things like the Honey Shop (dedicated to all things honey) or Gourmet Chocolate shop.

Tip #1: Buy a Ljubljana Card.

It's 12.50 Euro and gets you into all of the Mueseums and Art Galleries for free and allows you free bus fares around the city. Well worth it.

Jumping on the funicular to Ljubljana Castle is a must as the cities panorama is best viewed in ascent. I think my jaw may have dropped at one point. The Castle itself is a very orchestrated affair - renovated to within an inch of its life. Accessing the Viewing Tower also gets you a short 20 minute 3D movie history of Slovenia and Ljubljana, equip with English Headset and Professor Finkle glasses, before then allowing you to ascend the spiral staircase to the tower. The views here are breathtaking - just hope for a clear day.

On my way out of Ljubljana Castle and back to the funicular I had my first encounter with a Gypsy (said with a Borat accent).

Tip #2: Speak Gibberish to a Gypsy to Fool them

The evil gypsy, in the guise of a young woman with odd Hello Kitty clips in her hair, appeared from the wood calling for help. At first I ignored the calls of the evil one and continued to walk toward the safety of the Funicular. However, her calling was too strong and I turned briefly in her direction and she knew she had. Scuttling her over-clothed body along the gravel path she advanced in my direction. I stood silently looking at the evil before me and steeled myself for battle. She opened her mouth to speak and in broken English she began "Excuse me...I'm sorry...I have problem". Knowing of the tricks of the gypsy where their stories of woe extract Euro from your wallet I allowed her to prattle on about a "sickness" and a "train ride to Munich" and "how she is stuck in Ljubljana". It is then that it dawns upon me - I have not yet spoken to her and she thinks I'm an English speaker. It is then that I commence speaking to her in the lost language of Zeiherese, a very rare language that only myself and my sister Jennifer had spoken when we were children, and almost forgotten. Immediately the gypsy showed confusion and a weakness was revealed. I continued with my garbled gibberish language however being a strong gypsy she was undetered and attempted German with me. I continued with my ploy not allowing her words to penetrate my ears. Her third attempt to extract money from me commenced with hand gestures and it was with this I knew she was defeated. Using the universal hand gesture of "I don't know" I turned my back on her and strode toward the Funicular. The gypsy was defeated and vanquished back into the forest from which she had come. Although this trick has worked once with a gypsy I will not resolve to continue to use this as my only defence.

Tip #3: Tivoli Garden & Park is not a Park it's a WOOD and you need to be wearing hiking shoes if you're going to walk it (and allow yourself at least 2 hours to do the loop).

Eurovision Rating: Early judges favourite with a solid Euro-Pop outing with a catchy chorus from a single female. Not one but 2 key changes, costume reveal and scantily clad male backing dancers. Qualifies for Final. Top 5 finish.

Next Haltestellar: Bled, Slovenia.

Monday...it must be Munich.

My journey to Munich was fabulous. It started with a seamless trip on a DB ICE train from Frankfurt airport direct to Munich Hauptbahnhof. The journey was littered with pretty little towns each one dominated by an ornate Church with a ridiculously high steeple. It took me back to my Year 9 English Lit novel by William Golding The Spire. I understand the concept of towns with competing Churches now (sorry I did not get it in Year 9 Mrs Townsend).

However, on the arrival into Munich my seamless start quickly became unstitched as I was confronted by a town that was basically shut. As my cold had well and truly kicked in all I wanted was a Chemist or Supermarket to get some Aspirin. But this was too much to ask. Cue the snow. OK - back to the hotel for me where I then spent a night sweating out a feverish cold with hallucinatory dreams of me co-orindating a birthday concert for Beyonce including a 400 strong schyncronization of Single Ladies (thanks Glee). Not so much fun.






Undetered by the previous afternoon and evening I arose on Monday morning determine to shake the best out of Munich...and off I went at 8:30am ready to conquer the Bavarian capital. Mmmm - nothing opens until 10am. DOH! So to Coffee Fellows I go and bide my time until Munich decides to open.


And when it did well, you could not stop me. Marienplatz (tick), Odeonsplatz (tick), Frauenkirche (tick), Theatinerkirche (tick), English Gardens (tick), Surfer at the English Garden (tick -with bonus point), Hofbrauhaus (tick), Schloss Nymphenburg (tick), Viktualienmarkt (tick). Tick, tick, tick!




Top 5 Lessons if visiting Munich.


1. Don't expect ANYTHING to be open on a Sunday

...particularly a chemist (when you really, really need Nurofen as you have a killer cold).


2. Kaffee "to go"

...it's not take-away, take-out it's ALWAYS "to go".

3. Learn German

...then you know when people are being a bitch about you and you can turn around and retort to them - yes, I'm talking about you - the Lady on Tram 17 to Schloss Nymphenburg - I know what you called me.


4. Schloss Nymphenburg closes at 4pm on a Monday

...don't expect to get in if you arrive at 3:45pm. Doh!

5. Reserve a seat on the DB

..it's worth the extra 2 Euro - a family of four stood for the entire 3+ hour trip.


Eurovision status: Pretty all girl group that play a variety of traditional instruments. Costume change at 1 minute 43. Qualifies for final. Finishes outside the Top 20.

Next Stop: Ljubljana, Slovenia.